How getting our skincare on point can help us to feel a little bit more ‘Meno-poised’

Perimenopause and menopause are massive life events for women. Seen as a taboo until very recently, discussions and awareness are thankfully welcomed more now than they have ever been. Yet these changes are still misunderstood, misdiagnosed and sometimes ignored. I am a Menopause Coach and my aim is to pass on some sound advice. If you are suffering right now or think you are at the beginning of this journey I want to empower you to recognise what is happening within your own bodies. Providing some confidence to seek help from your GP or a health specialist. Plus if you are reading this but not affected by the menopause personally I hope to arm you with some useful knowledge to be able to understand and support others around you.

 

In this article I’m going to talk about the difference between perimenopause and menopause. I’ll also discuss some of the changes we may experience in our skin and what we can do to alleviate these.

 

Almost every women will go through these changes which arecaused by long term hormone deficiencies. Ultimately, it’s when we stop having periods because our ovaries stop producing eggs and, as a consequence, our hormone levels of oestrogen and progesterone fall. But this is generally not a smooth transition because our hormones fluctuate rather than fall steadily causing all sorts of issues. It’s really important to say that we must recognise it’s not just women in their forties and fifties that will experience this. Those who are non-binarythat were female at birth, trans men who haven’t gone through gender re-assignment surgery, anyone who has had a hysterectomy (uterus removal) and/or oophorectomy (ovary removal) and in rare cases teenagers and even children can also experience these symptoms.

 

Research has shown that one third of perimenopausal and menopausal women in the UK wait at least a year to receive treatment for their symptoms and for one in ten it takes more than nine doctor appointments to make a diagnosis. This is all whilst experiencing a multitude of symptoms which can cause real suffering. Physical and mental health can decline during this time. We shouldn’t have to endure these changes just because it’s a ‘natural’ process that women go through. Withthe appropriate treatments and lifestyle changes it can be effectively managed and quality of life can be improved.

 

What is Perimenopause?

This is when we are experiencing menopausal symptoms due to hormone changes but we still have our periods. Even if these are changing in frequency and nature. The average age to start having perimenopausal symptoms is around forty five. Although everyone’s experience is different. The perimenopause can last for many months or years and can be a rocky road.

 

 

What is Menopause?

In Greek it translates as ‘month’ and ‘cease’ and is when wedon’t have a period for twelve consecutive months. The average age of menopause is fifty one and forty nine for BIPOC  communities (Black, Indigenous and People of Colour). But again this can be different from woman to woman. Most people concentrate on the menopause but it’s the perimenopause beforehand which can be really disruptive.

 

What is Post Menopause?

The time in our life after the period of twelve consecutive months with no period.

 

What part do Oestrogen & Progesterone play?

For many of us the hormones oestrogen and progesterone work in synergy to regulate the menstrual cycle and produce eggs. They are preparing our bodies for possible pregnancy every month and we experience a period when pregnancy doesn’t happen. As we approach menopause our ovaries make fewer of these hormones and our fertility decreases. Once we are post menopause we can’t become pregnant. Testosterone also has an important role to play in growth, bone mass and maintenance of the female sexual anatomy. So can cause problems when it too starts to decline.

 

Oestrogen is a big player in keeping our whole bodies running smoothly, not just our menstrual cycle. It directly effects our immunity, mood, muscles, hair and skin to name just a few. So when it starts to fluctuate during the perimenopause and menopause this leads to a deficiency resulting in a whole host of symptoms.

 

What are the symptoms?

There isn’t a test available that can give us a definitive diagnosis. If you are not feeling quite like your normal self, ‘out of sorts’, experiencing symptoms you haven’t noticed before I would suggest keeping a diary of your mental and physical health or better still use a menopause app to track what’s going on. There are nearly forty different symptoms associated with this period in our lives. It’s not just hot flushes and feeling a bit cranky! Below are many of them although this isn’t an exhaustive list:

 

 

If you are experiencing any of these symptoms, keep a note of them and read what you can from reliable sources. Make an appointment to see your GP or a health professional armed with your evidence and knowledge.

 

How does the perimenopause and menopause affect our skin?

Many of us will see the biggest changes to our skin during this time. It may feel tighter, drier, itchier and rougher with a dull appearance. Rosacea and broken capillaries may develop. Fine lines will seem more prominent. We may even see a return of acne or experience it for the first time. Much of this isn’t exclusive to the skin on our face either, changes happen to the skin all over our body.

 

So why does this happen? Most of the cells in our skin have oestrogen receptors. Oestrogen has four key functions within our skin which, when depleting, will cause changes:

 

1.Oestrogen produces hyaluronic acid

This is a gel like substance produced just below the skins surface. It’s a natural hydrator and is able to retain water so it’s a real skin superhero. It gives the skin fullness, reducing fine lines and dryness. But as oestrogen declines, so does the production of hyaluronic acid. Therefore our skin finds it harder to retain moisture leaving it dry, dull and scaly. The natural shedding of dry dead skin cells slows right down too. The radiant glow we maybe once had seems to fade away. When skin cells don’t shed effectively skincare products that are applied cannot penetrate effectively and do their job.

 

Oestrogen stimulates the sebaceous glands

Therefore sebum (oil) is produced to keep the skin nourished and smooth. When this depletes skin becomes drier, scaly and rougher.

 

 

Oestrogen also builds collagen

This is a connective tissue that gives skin its strength and structure. When they decrease, stiffen and break apart this results in deeper lines, sagginess and loss of tone.

 

Oestrogen produces ceramides

Ceramides are a lipid that binds the top layers of the skin together so that it can retain water and protect from irritants.When these decrease the skin finds it harder to hold on to water. Again resulting in drier skin which can become sensitised due to its protective layer being compromised.

 

It’s been found that oestrogen levels start to decrease in the skin up to ten years before we are fully menopausal. So these symptoms of decreasing moisture and changes to the structure of the skin can creep up on us over a period of time. Testosterone can also wreak havoc by producing excess sebum which can lead to an oilier skin, blemishes and blocked pores. We can also see an increase in facial hair too. The rate in which our skin cells renew slows down massively. But help is at hand, we can tweak our current skincare routines to seepositive results.

 

What can I do to improve the health of my skin?

There are lots of small changes we can make to see and feel a difference in our skin. Healthy radiant skin is possible whatever our age and no matter what treatment for perimenopause and menopause we decide to take.

 

Start with reviewing your current skincare routine

Focus on the basics, don’t have an over complicated regime. Choose products that are gentle, nourishing and hydrating by looking for ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, ceramides and squalene to support the skins natural barrier and moisture. Peptides and retinoids are collagen boosting ingredients and will help to combat loss of firmness and fine lines. Treat skin as ‘maturing’ skin and try to see this as a positive because it is. We are lucky to see our skin change and develop with age, even if it doesn’t seem like it at times.

 

Choose gentle cleansers such as balms, oils and milks which won’t strip the skin.

 

Always keep a facial mist to hand. These are wonderful hydrating sprays that you can use any time of day or night.

 

Opt for serums that contain vitamin C to brighten the complexion and hyaluronic acid to hydrate.

 

Use a gentle exfoliator to remove dry dead skin cells and encourage new cells to form.

 

Try not to over use acids and peels such as glycolic or lactic acid. They still have a place in many skincare routines to exfoliate, brighten and stimulate the skin but pare back a little.

 

Retinoids (vitamin A) are an incredible addition to an evening routine but if you haven’t used them before introduce themgradually. They can make a real difference to the appearance and texture of the skin.

 

Moisturise with a cream suitable for your skin. Don’t feel you have to use a super rich formulation if your skin isn’t particularly dry. There are lots of different textures to choose from for this age group.

 

Sunscreen should be a daily staple, even in the winter, and especially after applying retinoid the night before.

 

Don’t overload the skin with too many thick rich products.  Be mindful of how your skin looks and feels and if it needs more product you can apply it. I always suggest cleansing the face and applying your evening routine products several hours before bed. This way you can then see and feel if you face needs more moisture just before going to bed.

 

Treat the skin on your body much the same as the skin on your face. You may be experiencing dry, dehydrated, rough, itchy skin as hormone levels fluctuate. Use a gentle shower gel and moisturise daily. Use a gentle body exfoliator once or twice a week to remove dry dead skin cells. You don’t need to use harsh scrubs as this might make the situation worse. Many body care products contain ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and ceramides etc. So keep your eyes peeled for these if you have particularly dry skin.

 

Ultimately concentrate on feeding and nourishing the skin. Think of your new skincare routine as a real act of kindness to yourself.

 

And also think about:

 

Feeding the skin from the inside

Keeping hydrated with drinking water, feeding our body nutritious gut friendly food and reducing our sugar intake will not only benefit our skin but all systems of the body. A good quality Omega 3 supplement can make a positive impact.Omega 3 are a crucial component of the lipid membrane of skin cells. So this is also a good place to start feeding the skin from the inside out. Check with your GP before taking if you have any concerns.

 

Breakouts

Don’t treat the skin harshly if you experience spots and blackheads. There is no need to try to strip the skin of oil. This will only create further problems. Treat the area where the spots are rather than the whole face.

 

Moles

Keep a check on moles as it’s more common to find pre-cancerous and cancerous changes at this time.

 

Bruises

We are more prone to bruising due to the falling levels of oestrogen but also simply because the skin is thinner.

 

Healing

Our skin is slower to repair and heal as we get older. We don’t have as many growth factors and stem cells to regenerate.

 

Stress

The route of all evil. If we are able to reduce stress in our lives this will have a positive impact on our perimenopause and menopause experience including what happens with our skin.

 

Below are some handpicked products stocked at Perfumery & Company which are perfect for perimenopausal and menopausal skin. However, they do stock many more items suitable for maturing and hormonal skin so do check out their website or pop in if you are local to them:

 

Clarins Super Restorative range

This range has been specifically designed for menopausal skin. Like a comfort blanket for the face. The day and night creams have been formulated to our specific needs at these different times of the day, protecting the skins barrier during the day and reactivating the skin cells at night. Containing organic harungana extract which is a tree sap with healing, soothing and revitalising properties. It’s known as one of nature’s retinols so is ideal for skin of this age. This range offers face creams for different skin types. I have been trialling the day and night cream for very dry skin. If your skin isn’t very dry you could opt for the moisturisers for all skin types.

 

Clarins Super Restorative Day Cream

Suitable for very dry skin (another cream is available in the range for all skin types and has a lighter consistency)

Containing vegetal squalene to rebuild and protect the skin’s natural barrier encouraging a smoother surface texture. What I love about this cream is that even though it’s for a very dry skin it isn’t too rich. It penetrates effectively into the skin so shouldn’t feel too heavy for someone with dry skin. Apply in the morning onto clean skin after serum. Always take the cream down the neck and onto the chest area.

 

Clarins Super Restorative Night Cream

Suitable for very dry skin (another cream is available in the range for all skin types and has a lighter consistency)

Along with organic harungana this cream contains a vitamin C derivative to brighten and organic sea lily to improveoverall hydration.  This is a super nourishing cream for dry to very dry skin. Apply in the evening onto clean skin after serums/oils.

 

Neals Yard Remedies Women’s balance range

This is a body care range featuring a specific blend of essential oils that smell like a spa in a bottle – Rose Absolut, geranium and frankincense that not only nourish parched skin but are clinically proven to bring about balance and harmony to mind and body. A lovely delicate fragrance. This range has been designed specifically for women’s natural cycles and life stages. They are a joy to use and help to relax and calm.

 

Women’s Balance Shower Oil

Suitable for all skin types

I love a shower oil and this one is no exception. Macadamia and sea buckthorn cleanse and nourish dry, dehydrated skin perfectly. Whilst the unique blend of essential oils definitely brings some calm and balance. Massage into wet skin and see it transform into a milk to provide hours of moisture.

 

Women’s Balance Massage Oil

Suitable for all skin types

This is a luxurious massage oil to use after a shower on dry skin. Containing the same incredible essential oil blend apply any time to restore feelings of calm. Warm a few drops in your hands and breath in the aroma. Close your eyes and take three deep breaths before massaging in circular motions all over the body. I like to use this in the morning after my shower as it doesn’t leave skin feeling greasy, it sinks in beautifully. But I’ve also used it at night, specifically to give myself a warming foot massage before bed. Remember to gently exfoliate once or twice a week to ensure the massage oil can penetrate effectively.

 

Body Cream

Suitable for all skin types

Containing hyaluronic acid to intensely moisturise, this rich body cream feels like a real treat to use and is perfect for dry skin. It will keep your body moisturised for up to twenty four hours. It brings immediate relief and comfort to skin that feels parched and itchy leaving it smooth and moisturised. Containing the same spa like fragrance as the rest of the Women’s Balance range, it has definitely formed part of a relaxing bed time ritual for me.

 

I really hope to have imparted some useful information about this much misunderstood stage of life and shared a few hints and tips on ways to look after your skin through this time.

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I adore facial oils. They are one of my favourite skincare steps and a game changer when it comes to achieving glowing skin. The humble facial oil is the quickest and simplest way to bring some luminosity to the skin. But if you’ve previously avoided them, put off by applying an ‘oil’ onto your face, I’m here to persuade you to think again. It’s earned its place within the ‘skincare wardrobe’ and it will be a staple that you can pull out time and time again.

 

Facial oils are nutritionally brilliant for the skin. I often refer to them as food for the skin with many containing fatty acids, vitamins, antioxidants, peptides etc that really pack a punch when combined with a little facial massage. The oils available to us vary a lot from simple seed and nut oils to much more complex blends often containing plant extracts like essential oils.

 

Facial oils are loved by men and women. Whether you have dry, combination, oily skin, sensitivity, concerns about your skin showing signs of getting older, dehydrated skin, blemishes – there is an oil for you.  Different oils have different molecule sizes which means that they can penetrate into the skin at different rates and levels, some deeper than others. They replace oil that the skin has already lost and help to prevent further moisture loss which can happen with any skin type. They are classed as an emollient so they encourage softness and smoothness and are typically water free which means that they have limited preservatives. There are many beautiful blends available and usually smell absolutely divine. With amazing formulas for all skin types and concerns you will find one of these skincare saviours that’s just right for you.

Depending on the type of facial oil you need, here are some of their benefits:

• Improved radiance and glow
• Stimulated skin cell renewal
• Hydration and moisture replenishment
• Improved elasticity
• Balanced excess oil production
• Anti-inflammatory and comforting
• Reduction in puffiness
• Prevention of razor burn, soreness and rashes from shaving
• Increased feelings of relaxation (a secondary benefit of inhaling the aromas of the oil and massaging it into the skin during your evening routine)

 

What can an oil do for different skin types and concerns?

There is an abundant choice of oils for all skin types and concerns. First and foremost it will bring amazing luminosity to the skin but there are so many benefits if you choose one for your specific skin type or concern. Lots will contain active ingredients and these are ingredients that are clinically proven to deliver results and are what makes the oil effective.

 

Oily/Combination

Facial oils for oily and combination skin types will help to balance and regulate the natural oil production whilst leaving the skin soft and supple. They won’t make the skin any oilier. Blemishes and acne do not clear up by starving them of moisture. It’s just not the case. They are more likely to become red, angry and sore as the protective layer of the skin is stripped away. If harsh alcoholic based product are being used in the hope that they will dry out spots, what happens is that moisture is banished. Skin becomes confused and starts producing more oil to compensate, comfort and treat itself. These formulas are often ‘dry oils’ which have a lighter texture making them quicker to absorb. Therefore not leaving the skin feeling oily or blocking pores. Apply as part of your evening routine. They can work wonders!

 

Dry and/or dehydrated skin

Dry skin is usually caused by lack of oil in the skin. You may feel tightness, flakiness, a dull complexion, find that products don’t absorb well and experience some sensitivity. If your skin is dehydrated (this can affect any skin type) there is a lack of water in the skin. Skin can have areas of tightness and areas of oiliness, moisturisers are absorbed really quickly, makeup disappears, goes patchy, or seems like it slides off of your face.  Most of us at one time of another will have dehydrated skin.

 

If your skin is dry and/or dehydrated try to include several ‘oily’ products into your routine to keep the dryness and dehydration at bay. For example a balm cleanser as well as a facial oil. Layer products up by applying a facial oil under your moisturiser during the day.  Even mix a couple of drops with your moisturiser or foundation. Apply again as part of your evening routine. Be aware of how your skin feels as the evening progresses. I know this might sound a bit weird but if you tend to get up in the middle of the night to go to the toilet do a quick check of your skin and if it feels parched apply a little more.

 

Sensitive

Skin sensitivity can be due to lifestyle or genetics. A dryer skin type will be more prone to sensitivity because the skins protective barrier is compromised. The sensitivity should be temporary but could take a while to manage. Facial oils for sensitivity will contain ingredients known to soothe and comfort the skin. They will calm the skin down whilst adding vital moisture. Pat onto skin before moisturiser in the morning or evening. A facial oil or a moisturiser specifically designed for sensitive skin are your first port of call if you want to try to address some sensitivity issues.

 

When do I apply a facial oil?

As part of your evening routine:

The optimum time to apply your facial oil is as part of your evening skincare routine.

Cleanse, tone, eye product, serum, oil, moisturiser.  You’ll sometimes find me massaging a facial oil into my skin whilst curled up on the sofa watching TV.  Once a week, usually on a Sunday, I will do a longer massage. I have created a place for my skincare application within my evening routine and it works really well. Whether you do this when you get in from work or just before you go to bed is entirely up to you. But, what I would say is that, you may be feeling too tired if you leave this until bed time. An added bonus is that the oil will help reduce pillow crease marks when you wake in the morning. You could even apply a layer to your face as you lay in the bath relaxing.

 

 

As part of your morning routine:

As a pre shave to lift and soften the hairs in preparation for shaving. Also to shave with as the oil will help the razor to glide over the skin. If you prefer to use a shaving foam apply the facial oil underneath and it will act as a buffer between your skin and the razor, counteracting any drying effects of the blade scaping the skin. Putting an oil on the skin post shave before your aftershave balm/moisturiser is another great use. Either under or over your moisturiser or mixed into your cream when extra hydration is needed. This is a brilliant and effective moisture boost. A couple of drops in your foundation can give a lovely dewy look. But don’t apply over an SPF as this may break down the efficacy of the sunscreen.

 

When you are taking part in sport:

Heat and oils work well together so if you love spin, hot yoga, running, cycling etc an oil can be a great addition to your shelf. They are also great to use in a sauna or steam room too.

 

When flying:

Oils really come into their own when travelling on planes. Flying is extremely dehydrating so having a facial oil in your hand luggage, applying before you board and topping up on the flight will help to keep your skins hydration levels up and keep it soft and supple.

 

When the seasons change:

When the weather starts to get colder and the central heating kicks in our skin suffers. We can notice dryness, dehydration, a change in texture etc. Upping your facial oil application, whether applying it on its own, underneath or over the top of moisturiser or mixed into moisturiser will help to feed the skin with the moisture it’s craving. Having said this I use an oil all year round but I always assess my skincare with each season and look at what’s working and what needs to be switched up.

 

How do I apply a facial oil?

One of the things I like most about facial oils is that they encourage you to massage your skin as you apply it. The texture lends itself to be massaged in which will help them to penetrate effectively.  Through the mere action of your fingers, palms, heels of hands and finger tips applying the oil around your face, neck and décolleté (avoiding the eye area) blood circulation will be boosted and puffiness drained, alongside a myriad of other benefits. Facial massage is your secret weapon delivering visible benefits. Think of it as a workout for the skin.

You don’t need to warm the oil in your hands for it to be absorbed onto your face. Most formulations these days are ready as soon as they leave the bottle. But in the case of oils, distributing the product into your hands means you will be able to evenly apply it onto your face. There is a great opportunity here to inhale the beautiful aromas of the oil by cupping your hands around your nose and mouth. Take a moment to breathe in and out slowly three times before applying to your face and massaging in. They are a delight to use. 

Your skin shouldn’t feel greasy when you’ve applied oil. If it does, you’ve probably applied too much. A couple of drops is all that you will need. Most facial oils come in pipette or pump form so getting the right amount is easy. You want to be able to feel some grip to the skin rather than your hands slipping and sliding all of the  place. It’s a restored fresh healthy glow we are after rather than looking like we have dived into a vat of olive oil! Although I’m sure this has its own benefits but maybe not just before bedtime!

Visit my website www.nicolameirholistictherapies.com where I’ve written about facial massage www.nicolameirholistictherapies.com/post/facial-massage-at-home and my Instagram @nicolameirholistictherapies and Facebook @nicolameirbusiness where you will find information on facial massage techniques. However, don’t get bogged down by thinking that you have to use specific techniques and that everything must be just so. As long as you are using sweeping upward and outward movements you’ll be fine.

 

How should I store them

Keep them out of sunlight and they will last longer. If they come in a box store keep them in this. They will eventually go rancid but you will notice this as they will smell different or off.

 

When should I start using a facial oil?

I’d suggest that from your thirties a facial oil is a must. It’s a quick fix for glowing skin. I’ve used an oil since my mid-twenties and I’m now into my late forties. If you are in your teens and twenties a facial oil is a great product to have on your shelf. Just spend what you can afford. Pop a couple of drops into your moisturiser for convenience. You’ll soon see the difference, especially if your skin feels a bit dry or dehydrated during the colder months, or after a few too many wines, lack of sleep, burning the candle at both ends etc! This isn’t to say that the rest of us don’t experience any of these things but I remember those heady days in my teens and twenties.

 

There’s a huge choice of oils on the market and Perfumery & Company stock a great selection of them. Here are a few picks to help you choose:

 

Wildsmith Skin is a brand relatively new to me. I’ve been using some of their products for the last nine months or so. I haven’t been disappointed. They are a company based in Hampshire with roots firmly in the natural world. Their products use the latest bioactives, botanicals and minerals combined with optimal delivery systems that make a real difference to the skin.

 

Wildsmith Active Super Oil

Suitable for most skin types

Wow, what an oil!! This is a superior vitamin rich, nourishing and repairing overnight facial oil.  It’s definitely an investment but a little goes a long way. It contains seventeen premium plant oils which have been blended to regenerate and rejuvenate the skin and will benefit dehydrated, dry and ageing skin.  It seals in moisture and helps to reinforce the skins barrier whilst powerful antioxidants protect against cell damage from external aggressors.

 

Clarins do facial oils so well. They’ve been formulating facial oils for over sixty years. I have adored them for many many years and I usually have at least one of them on my shelf at any one time. They are plant based oils and offer a wide choice for different skin types and concerns.

Clarins Blue Orchid Treatment Oil

Dehydrated skin

An absolute firm favourite of mine with a beautiful aroma. Blue orchid & patchouli essential oils are efficient at delivering a hit of hydration, softening the skin and brightening the complexion. Love, love, love!

 

Clarins Santal Treatment Oil

Dry skin

Sandalwood, cardamom and lavender essential oils work perfectly on skin that is dry, red and uncomfortable. They soothe the skin and restore suppleness, whilst encouraging luminosity.  

 

Clarins Lotus Treatment Oil

Oily or combination skin

Geranium and rosemary essential oils combined with lotus extract will purity, refine the skins texture, regulate oil production in addition to much needed hydration. This is a great choice for anyone who has oily or combination skin. And remember, it won’t make your skin more oily.

 

Clarins Restoring Treatment Oil

Sensitive skin

A beautiful oil containing clary sage extract to soothe feelings of tightness, dryness etc. It will protect the skin, hydrate, and smooth the skins surface. It can be used to ‘reset’ the skin after a bout of sensitivity. Think of it as a blanket for your face.

 

Nourish London is a British organic skincare company offering scientifically developed organic and vegan products powered by ingredients found in nature. Their products are made in London.

 

Nourish London Radiance Firming Facial Oil

For all skin types

This contains a luxurious blend of omega rich oils including pumpkin seed oil which has been scientifically proven to improve skin tone, boost radiance and protect the skin. French marine algae extract slows the breakdown of collagen and elastin encouraging skin to stay firm and supple. A beautiful light fragrance which is a pleasure to use as part of your evening routine.

 

Neals Yard Remedies were stablished forty years ago. They are a modern apothecary, established as a successful creator of natural and organic health and beauty products. Neals Yard produce oils that are a pleasure to use. I use several doing my client facial and body treatments.

 

Neals Yard Rehydrating Rose Facial Oil

Normal skin (although I would suggest it suitable for most skin types)

This oil has a heavenly fragrance dominated by the infusion of damask. It soothes and revitalises whilst balancing the skins natural moisture levels.

 

Neals Yard Orange Flower Facial Oil

Dry Skin

A skin quenching formula for dryer skin. Nourishing neroli oil combined with a blend of omega and antioxidant rich botanical oils not only feeds the skin with what dry skin needs but also protects the skin from further moisture loss.

 

We all want glowing skin, right? Head to Perfumery & Company (in person or online) and they will be so happy to help.

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